Combat

Combat takes place second by second. Each character actively involved in the combat gets one opportunity to act per second, referred to as his “turn.” After everyone has taken his turn, one second has passed.

The GM shouldn’t feel constrained by the one-second time scale. This is just a way of breaking a battle into manageable chunks! He should feel free to drop out of combat time whenever dramatically appropriate, and to resume combat time when noncombat action gives way to more fighting.

The “turn sequence” is the order in which active characters take their turns. It is set at the start of the fight and does not change during combat. The combatant with the highest Basic Speed goes first and takes his turn, then the one with the next highest Basic Speed, and so on, in descending order by Basic Speed. Once every active character has taken his turn, one second has passed and another second begins.

Tied Speeds: If multiple NPCs on the same side have the same Basic Speed, the GM simply decides who goes first – it isn’t really important. If PCs are involved, ties go to the highest DX. If there’s still a tie, GM should roll randomly at the start of the combat to determine who acts first, and use that order throughout the combat.

A given participant’s turn is the one-second period that stretches from when he chooses a maneuver until his next opportunity to select a maneuver. This overlaps the turns of other characters.

An “attack” is an attempt to hit a foe or other target. If you execute an Attack, AllOut Attack, or Move and Attack maneuver, you may try to hit a foe. You can only attack with a weapon if it’s ready.

The GM always has the option of ruling, for any reason having to do with the situation, that some fighters cannot attack certain opponents. For instance, eight attackers could not hit one human-sized foe at the same time. (Even three or four attackers at once would be unlikely, unless their victim had no allies!)

There are two basic types of attacks: melee attacks and ranged attacks. Your target must be within reach if you’re making a melee attack, or within range if you’re making a ranged attack. Resolving either type of attack takes three die rolls:

• First is your attack roll. If your roll is successful, your attack was a good one.
• Now your foe must make a defense roll to see if he can defend against your blow. If he makes this roll, he evaded or stopped the attack, and is not hit.
• If he misses his defense roll, your blow struck home and you roll for damage.

Attack Roll

Your “attack roll” is a regular success roll. Figure your effective skill (base skill plus or minus any appropriate modifiers) with the weapon you are using. If your roll is less than or equal to your “effective” skill, your attack will hit unless your foe successfully defends (see below). If he fails to defend – or if he can’t – you’ve hit him. If your roll is greater than your effective skill, you missed!

No matter what your skill, a roll of 3 or 4 always hits, and is a critical hit. A roll of 5 or 6 may be a critical hit, depending on your skill. If your effective skill is 15, then a roll of 5 or less is a critical hit. If your effective skill is 16 or more, then a roll of 6 or less is a critical hit. On a critical hit, the blow automatically hits home – your foe does not get a defense roll. As well, on an attack roll of 3, you do not roll for damage – your blow automatically does the most damage it could do. For instance, maximum damage for a 1d+2 blow would be 6+2, or 8 points. Other critical hits bypass the defense roll, but roll normally for damage.

Regardless of skill, a roll of 17 or 18 always misses.

Melee Attacks

When you take a maneuver that lets you make a melee attack, you must specify who you are attacking, and with what weapon. You can make a melee attack using any ready melee weapon (including a natural weapon such as a kick, bite, or punch). You can use some weapons in more than one way; e.g., you can swing or thrust with a shortsword. Such weapons have multiple lines on the weapon tables (pp. 20- 22). When you attack with a weapon like this, you must indicate how you are using it before you roll.

A one-handed weapon is ready if it’s being held in your hand. A two-handed weapon is ready if you are gripping it with both hands. Some unwieldy weapons (e.g., the poleaxe) become unready after each attack unless you are extremely strong.

To draw a new weapon from a sheath, scabbard, or sling, or to ready an unwieldy weapon that became unready after an attack, you must take a Ready maneuver. A natural weapon (punch, kick, etc.) is always ready unless the body part in question is occupied or restrained; e.g., you can’t punch if you are holding a weapon with the same hand.

Ranged Attacks

A “ranged attack” is any attack with a weapon used at a distance, from a thrown rock to a laser rifle. You can only make a ranged attack on a target that falls within your weapon’s range. To find this, see the relevant weapon table. Most ranged attacks list Half Damage (1/2D) range and Maximum (Max) range, in yards. Your target must be no farther away than Max range; 1/2D range only affects damage

All ranged weapons have an Accuracy (Acc) statistic. This is the bonus you get if you take one or more Aim maneuvers immediately before you attack. When you Aim, you can receive other bonuses for extra seconds of aim, bracing your weapon, or using a scope

“Thrown weapons” are weapons you must physically hurl at the target: rocks, hand grenades, ninja stars (shuriken), etc. You can also throw certain melee weapons, such as hatchets, knives, and spears. Treat a thrown weapon just like any other ranged attack

General Attack Modifiers

• Attacker’s Maneuver
  -- Move and Attack: -4
• Attacker’s Situation
  -- Bad footing: -2 or more (GM’s option)
  -- Major distraction (e.g., all clothes on fire): -3 or more (GM’s option)
  -- Minor distraction (e.g., part of clothes on fire): -2
  -- ST below that required for weapon: -1 per point of deficit
• Visibility
  -- Blind, target completely invisible, or in total darkness: -10
  -- Cannot see foe: -6, or -4 if you know his location to within 1 yard
  -- Partial darkness, fog, smoke, etc.: -1 to -9 (GM’s option)

Melee Attack Modifiers

• Attacker’s Maneuver
  -- All-Out Attack (Determined): +4
• Attacker’s Situation
  -- Holding a large shield: -2
• Other Actions by Attacker
  -- Off-hand attack: -4 (no penalty with Ambidexterity)

Ranged Attack Modifiers

• Attacker’s Maneuver
  -- All-Out Attack (Determined): +1
• Other Actions by Attacker
  -- Aim for one turn: +Accuracy of weapon
  -- Braced weapon: +1 if stationary and took a turn to Aim
  -- Extra Aim: +1 for 2 seconds, +2 for 3+ seconds
  -- Off-hand attack: -4 (no penalty with Ambidexterity)

Size and Speed/Range Table

The main use for this table is ranged combat, but the GM can also use it for Sense rolls and other success rolls that size, speed, or range might believably affect.

This table uses the same progression for size as it does for the sum of speed and range, but the modifiers for size have the opposite sign from those for speed/range: large size gives a bonus, while large speed and range give a penalty. Thus, if a target is twice as big but also twice as far away and twice as fast, the net modifier to hit stays the same.

Size of Target: The larger the target, the easier it is to hit. The modifier to hit an object due to its size is its “Size Modifier” (SM). Humans have SM 0. Objects larger than man-sized give a bonus to hit, while smaller objects give a penalty. Find the SM of a creature or object using the table. Simply look up the being or object’s longest dimension (e.g., height, for a humanoid) in the “Linear Measurement” column, and then read across to the “Size” column to find SM. If size falls between two values, base SM on the next-highest size. If an object is much smaller in two of three dimensions (e.g., a steel cable 100 yards long but only 2” thick), use the smallest dimension instead of the largest.

Target’s Speed and Range: Speed and range only affect ranged combat. Add the target’s speed in yards/seconds to its range in yards. Find the total in the “Linear Measurement” column. Read across to the “Speed/Range” column to find the speed/range modifier. If the total falls between two values, use the higher; e.g., treat 8 yards as 10 yards. For fighters on foot, assume speed is 0 and use range by itself; for vehicles, speed in yards/second is half speed in mph.

Examples: A man 8 yards away is -4 to hit. A motorcycle rider 40 yards away, traveling at 30 yards/second (60 mph), has a speed/range of 40 + 30 = 70 yards, which equals -9 to hit.

If you make your attack roll, you have not (yet) actually struck your foe, unless you rolled a critical hit. Your attack is good enough to hit him – if he fails to defend. There are three “active defenses” that a fighter can use to evade or ward off an attack: Dodge, Parry, and Block. You should calculate these active defense scores in advance and record them on your character sheet (ours does a lot of it for you)

An active defense is a deliberate attempt to avoid a particular attack. It’s only possible if the defender is aware of the possibility of an attack from his assailant and is free to react . . . by moving out of the way of the attack (a dodge), deflecting the attack with a weapon or empty hand (a parry), or interposing a shield (a block)

An active defense is a deliberate attempt to avoid a particular attack. It’s only possible if the defender is aware of the possibility of an attack from his assailant and is free to react . . . by moving out of the way of the attack (a dodge), deflecting the attack with a weapon or empty hand (a parry), or interposing a shield (a block)

Defense Roll

The defender rolls 3d against his active defense score. If his roll is less than or equal to his effective defense, he dodged, parried, or blocked the attack. Otherwise, his active defense was ineffective and the attack struck home. If this occurs, roll for damage.

An active defense roll of 3 or 4 is always successful – even if your effective defense score was only 1 or 2! A roll of 17 or 18 always fails. Your foe does not get to attempt a defense roll if you rolled a critical hit against him. If you are stunned, any active defense is at -4

If you have a ready shield, add its Defense Bonus (DB) to any Dodge, Parry, or Block roll against an attack that came from in front of you or from your shield side.

Dodging

A “dodge” is an active attempt to move out of the perceived path of an attack. This is often the best defense when you’re not skilled with your weapon and you have no shield, or when you’re attacked multiple times.

Your Dodge active defense is Basic Speed + 3, dropping all fractions, less a penalty equal to your encumbrance level. Your character sheet calculates this for you. ou may dodge any attack except one that you did not know about! You only get one Dodge roll against a given attack. You only get one active defense against each attack, unless you use All-Out Defense (Double Defense), but there is no limit to the number of times you may dodge different attacks during your turn.

Blocking

A “block” is an attempt to interpose a shield, cloak, or similar large object between yourself and an attack. This requires a ready shield. (If you’re strong enough to grab and lift someone, you can block with his body!) Your Block active defense is 3 + half your Shield skill, dropping all fractions. For instance, Shield-11 would give a Block of 3 + (11/2) = 8.5, which rounds down to 8.

In general, you can block any melee attack, thrown weapon, projected liquid, or muscle-powered missile weapon. You may attempt to block only one attack per turn.

Parrying

A “parry” is an attempt to deflect a blow using a weapon or your bare hands. You cannot parry unless your weapon is ready – or, if you are unarmed, you have an empty hand. You may attempt to parry only one attack per turn. You can use most melee weapons to parry. A few long, well-balanced weapons (e.g., the quarterstaff) get +1 or +2 to parry due to their ability to keep a foe at bay. Your Parry active defense with a given weapon is 3 + half your skill with that weapon, dropping all fractions. For instance, Broadsword-13 would give a Parry of 9.

A parry won’t stop anything except melee attacks or thrown weapons. Exception: If a foe attacks you with a missile weapon and he is within reach of your melee weapon, you may parry. You’re parrying the weapon, not the projectile! For example, if an attacker fired a crossbow at you from only one yard away, you could attempt to parry barehanded. Success would mean that you slapped his arm or crossbow aside, causing him to fire wide of your body.

You can parry thrown weapons, but at a penalty: -1 for most thrown weapons, or -2 for small ones such as knives, shuriken, and other weapons that weigh 1 lb. or less.

If you successfully parry an unarmed attack (bite, punch, etc.) with a weapon, you may injure your attacker. Immediately roll against your skill with the weapon you used to parry. This roll is at -4 if your attacker used Karate. If you succeed, your parry struck the attacker’s limb squarely. He gets no defense roll against this! Roll damage normally.

Retreat

Retreat” is not a separate defense, but an option you may add to any active defense against a melee attack. To exercise this option, you must move away from your attacker: at least one yard, but not more than 1/10 your Move – exactly as for a step. 

Retreating gives +3 to Dodge, or +1 to Block or Parry. Exception: If you parry using Karate or Fencing, a retreat gives +3 to Parry, as these forms make superior use of mobility. 

Your step back takes place immediately. It is assumed to occur as your foe is striking. If it would take you out of your attacker’s reach, he still gets his attack. If he has multiple attacks (e.g., from an Extra Attack, All-Out Attack, or Rapid Strike), your retreat does not put you beyond the reach of his remaining attacks. However, you get your retreating bonus on all active defense rolls against all of his attacks until your next turn. 

If your opponent attacked you with a maneuver that allows a step, but has not yet taken his step, he can choose to follow you by taking his unused step. In effect, he is forcing you back!

You can retreat only once during your turn. In other words, once you retreat, you may not retreat again until after your next turn. You cannot retreat while in a sitting or kneeling posture, or whilestunned. You also cannot retreat if you moved faster than your Basic Move on your last turn (that is, if you were sprinting or using Enhanced Move). You can retreat (by rolling) if you are lying down. 

Defense Modifiers

• Defender’s Equipment
  -- Parrying with dagger or knife: -1 to Parry
  -- Parrying with quarterstaff: +2 to Parry
  -- Unarmed parry vs. weapon: -3 to Parry (0 vs. thrust, or w. Karate)
• Defender’s Maneuver
  -- All-Out Attack: no defense possible!
  -- All-Out Defense (Increased Defense): +2 to one of Dodge, Block, or Parry
  -- Move and Attack: dodge or block only; you cannot parry
• Defender’s Situation
  -- Bad footing: -1 or more (GM’s option) C
  -- Can’t see attacker: -4, and a block or parry requires a Hearing-2 roll
  -- Distraction (e.g., clothes on fire): -1 or more (GM’s option)
  -- Encumbered: penalty equal to encumbrance level to Dodge, or to Karate Parry
  -- Stunned: -4
• Nature of Attack
  -- Attack from behind: no defense possible
  -- Flail: -4 to Parry / -2 to Block
  -- Thrown weapon: -1 to Parry, or -2 to Parry if small (1 lb. or less)

Unarmed Defense

If you are fighting without weapons, or with at least one hand free, you may choose to parry barehanded. Beings that lack hands (like most animals) can’t parry unarmed – they can only dodge. You can use Brawling or Karate skill – or DX, if higher – to parry with one hand. Your Parry active defense is 3 + half your skill or DX, dropping all fractions. There’s no penalty to parry another unarmed attack. You are at -3 to parry weapons, unless the attack is a thrust or you are using Karate (in either case, use your full Parry).

Knockback

When you hit someone very hard, you may knock him away from you! This is called “knockback.” Only crushing and cutting attacks can cause knockback. A crushing attack can cause knockback regardless of whether it penetrates DR. A cutting attack can cause knockback only if it fails to penetrate DR.

Knockback depends on basic damage rolled before subtracting DR. For every full multiple of the target’s ST-2 rolled, move the target one yard away from the attacker. For instance, a man with ST 10 would be knocked back one yard per full 8 points of basic damage. If the target has ST 3 or less, knockback is one yard per point of basic damage! If the target has no ST score at all (like a wall), or is not resisting, use its HP instead

Anyone who suffers knockback must attempt a roll against the highest of DX, Acrobatics. If he is knocked back more than one yard, he rolls at -1 per yard after the first. Perfect Balance gives +4 to this roll. On a failure, he falls down.

If you knock your foe into something solid, the result – including damage to him and whatever he hit – is as if he had collided with it at a speed equal to the yards of knockback.

“Knockback Only”: Some attacks – a jet of water, a shove, etc. – do knockback but no damage. Roll the listed damage and work out knockback as usual, but no actual injury occurs (unless the target collides with something!).

Shove

As an attack action, you can shove a foe with one or both arms. Roll against DX to hit. Your foe may block, dodge, or parry. If you hit, roll thrust/crushing damage – (if you used only one hand, take -1 per die) – and double it. This inflicts knockback, but never actual physical injury.

If your attack roll succeeds and your target fails his defense roll (if any), you hit him! If your attack is one that can do damage, you must now make a “damage roll.” This tells you how much basic damage you deal to your target. Your weapon (and, for muscle-powered weapons, your ST) determines the number of dice you roll for damage. If your target has any Damage Resistance (DR) – from armor, protective magic spells, etc. – he subtracts this from your damage roll.

If your damage roll is less than or equal to your target’s effective DR, your attack failed to penetrate – it bounced off or was absorbed. If your damage roll exceeds your target’s DR, the excess is the penetrating damage. If your foe has no DR, the entire damage roll is penetrating damage. Once you know the penetrating damage of your attack, apply the wounding modifier for damage type (this matters only for cutting, impaling, and certain types of piercing damage; see below). This gives the injury the foe suffers, which is subtracted from his Hit Points.

Damage Roll

You usually make your own damage rolls, and the GM rolls for NPCs. Damage rolls are expressed as a number of dice, sometimes with a modifier; e.g., “6d-1” or “1d+2.” A negative modifier can’t reduce damage below 0 if the attack does crushing damage, or below 1 if it does any other type of damage. The result of the damage roll (after any modifiers, as explained above) is the hit’s “basic damage.”

If a ranged weapon has two range statistics, the first is its Half Damage (1/2D) range, in yards. If the target is at or beyond 1/2D range, divide basic damage by 2, rounding down.

Damage Resistance and Penetration

Damage Resistance (DR) rates the degree of protection that natural or worn armor, a force field, tough skin, etc. affords against damage. Objects and vehicles have their own DR values that protect against any damage they suffer – and if you take cover behind or inside them, their DR also protects you.

Subtract DR from basic damage. The result is the “penetrating damage” that punched through or deformed the armor enough to cause a significant injury. For instance, if you are hit by an attack that inflicts 6 points of basic damage and you’re wearing mail with DR 4, you take 2 points of penetrating damage.

In general, DR from multiple sources is additive; e.g., if you have a natural DR of 2 and put on a tactical vest with DR 12, your total DR is 14. Exceptions will always be noted.

Wounding Modifiers and Injury

Any damage left over after subtracting DR from basic damage is “penetrating damage.” If there is any penetrating damage, multiply it by the attack’s “wounding modifier.” This is a multiplier that depends on damage type:

• Small piercing (pi-): x0.5.
• Cutting (cut) and large piercing (pi+): x1.5
• Impaling (imp): x2.

The damage after this multiplier determines the injury: the HP lost by the target. Round fractions down, but the minimum injury is 1 HP for any attack that penetrates DR at all. Reduce the victim’s current HP total by the injury sustained.

Effects of Injury

The severity and type of the wound indicate what happens next. See Injury, Illness, and Fatige for rules on injuries and recovery.